Free preview · full pattern in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims
Figure 16 Cluster Edging (1913): vintage crochet pattern
An edging of three-treble clusters drawn together at the top by a single crochet, worked first along the foundation chain and then between the clusters of the row below, with two chain rows for the heading. Originally published as "Figure 16. Edging" in The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions by The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston in 1913.
By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Intermediate |
| Yarn weight | Lace (#0) |
| Yardage | the book gives no thread quantity for any design. (as printed; yardage not given) |
| Hook | 0.75 mm |
| Gauge | No gauge printed. Work a sample repeat and match the hook to the thread. |
| Finished size | Not printed. The book directs allowing 2¼ in (5.5 cm) extra on the foundation chain for every yard (0.9 m) of finished length. |
| Time | about 2 hours |
Materials
- Size 100 crochet thread — approximate modern equivalent of No. 100 Cordonnet crochet cotton
- 0.75 mm steel hook (US 14) — approximate for the book's No. 13 hook
- Fine tapestry or sewing needle for the ends
- Hook: Start with 0.75 mm (US steel 14) — approximate for the book's No. 13 hook; change size until the thread runs easily without splitting and the lace lies flat.
Yarn Kit & Substitution Options
This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:
Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic
315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture
2 skeins required
approx. $$10.98 total
Abbreviations (US terms)
- chain
- single crochet
- double crochet
- treble crochet
- stitch
- stitches
- yarn over
- loop
- repeat
- row
- cluster
Notes before you start
- Source: "Figure 16. Edging", The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions, The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston, 1913. Public domain in the USA.
- As printed — materials: No. 100 Cordonnet crochet cotton — from the book's general Materials paragraph: all of the edgings shown were made of No. 100 Cordonnet crochet cotton except those in which the number of cotton is specified in the directions; No. 13 hook — the book directs a No. 13 hook for No. 100 cotton and a No. 12 hook for No. 70 cotton, and for coarser cottons a hook that will carry the thread easily without splitting it. Gauge: Not given.
- Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own “Explanation of Stitches” (printed page 3), not by name. This book uses the older British-style naming, so its stitch names do NOT match modern US names: chain (ch) = ch; slip stitch (sl st) = sl st; “double” (d), “put hook through work, thread over hook and draw through, making two loops on needle; thread over again and draw through both loops” = modern US single crochet (sc); “half treble” (h t), thread over, draw through, then “draw through the three sts at once” = modern US half double crochet (hdc); “treble” (t), thread over, draw through, “draw through two, over again and draw through remaining two” = modern US double crochet (dc); “double treble” (d t), thread over twice and work off by twos three times = modern US treble crochet (tr); “long treble” (l t), thread over three times and “work all off by twos” = modern US double treble (dtr). Every stitch in these instructions has been rewritten in the modern US name and abbreviation on that basis.
- Modernisation note: The book's abbreviations are written in modern US form: d = sc, h t = hdc, t = dc, d t = tr, l t = dtr, st(s) = st(s), sp = sp, l = lp, bl = block, “miss” = sk, “thread over (the hook/needle)” = yo, “repeat” = rep, “needle” (for the crochet hook) = hook. Ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2d row”) are written Row 1, Row 2, and “1st round”/“2d round” as Rnd 1, Rnd 2. Section headings (Heading, Edge, Foundation) are the book's own where it prints them.
- Modernisation note: The book prints each design as one or two solid paragraphs; these have been split into one row, round or step per line. Stitch order and counts are unchanged. Where the book's own repeat markers (*, **, ***) span several rows they are kept as printed.
- Modernisation note: Thread sizes are the 1913 Cordonnet numbering. “No. N Cordonnet crochet cotton” is given as modern size N crochet thread, which is an approximation: modern size numbering runs the same way (higher number = finer thread) but the exact diameters are not identical. No yardage is printed anywhere in the book, so none is given here.
- Modernisation note: Hook sizes are the book's own steel numbering (“For No. 100 cotton use a No. 13 hook, for No. 70 cotton a No. 12 hook; for coarser cottons use a hook that will carry the thread easily without splitting it”). The 1913 steel numbering is not identical to the modern one, so every metric size below is approximate and should be adjusted to the thread.
- Modernisation note: No gauge and no finished measurements are printed for this design; work a sample repeat and adjust the hook until the lace lies flat at the width you want.
- Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
Row progress: 0 of 5 done (0%)
Edging
0 of 5 done- Make a ch as long as you wish your lace to be, allowing 2¼ in (5.5 cm) more in length on the foundation chain for every yard (0.9 m).Mark row complete
- Row 1: 1 tr in the 5th st from hook, 1 tr in each of the next 3 sts, keeping the last lp of each st on the hook until you have them all made, then yo and draw through all the lps at once; then insert the hook under the 1st tr made and make 1 sc around all three tr at the top to secure them closely; ch 4, 1 tr in each of the next 3 sts — you will then have four lps on your hook — yo and draw through all four at once. Make 1 sc around all three at the top, inserting the hook under the ch 4. Rep the length of the foundation chain.Mark row complete
- Row 2: Without breaking the thread, ch 5, 1 sc in the end of the foundation ch, ch 5, 1 tr between the 1st and 2nd tr of the last row, 1 tr between the next 2 tr, 1 tr between the cls, yo and draw through all the lps, 1 sc around them all at the top, * ch 4, 1 tr between the next 2 tr, 1 tr between the next 2, 1 tr between the cls, yo, draw through all the lps, 1 sc around the top of them. Rep from * to the end of the row; turn.Mark row complete
- Row 3: Ch 5, 1 sc under the 1st ch of 4, (ch 3, 1 sc under the next ch of 4); rep to the end of the row; turn.Mark row complete
- Row 4: Ch 5, 1 dc under the 1st ch, (ch 1, 1 dc in the next sc, ch 1, 1 dc under the next ch 3); rep to the end.Mark row complete
Working on:
Make a ch as long as you wish your lace to be, allowing 2¼ in (5.5 cm) more in length on the foundation chain for every yard (0.9 m).
Continue this pattern
The rest of the Figure 16 Cluster Edging (1913) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims
Still to come in the full pattern:
- Finishing
Included with 618 patterns for $9 — $0.01 per pattern.

Errata
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Frequently asked questions
Where is the Figure 16. Edging pattern from?
It was published as "Figure 16. Edging" in The Priscilla Crochet Book: Edgings and Insertions by The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston in 1913. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.
What yarn or thread do I need for the Figure 16. Edging?
Size 100 crochet thread. Not printed — the book gives no thread quantity for any design.
What hook should I use?
Start with 0.75 mm (US steel 14) — approximate for the book's No. 13 hook; change size until the thread runs easily without splitting and the lace lies flat. Gauge: No gauge printed. Work a sample repeat and match the hook to the thread.







