Free preview · full pattern in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims
Oyster-shell Edging: vintage crochet pattern
A narrow three-row insertion of chain bars and blocks of single crochet, worked to any length, with printed directions for turning a corner and for adding a deep looped scallop along one edge. Originally published as "Oyster-shell Edging" in The Home Art Crochet Book (edited by Flora Klickmann) by The Office of “The Girl's Own Paper & Woman's.
By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Easy |
| Yarn weight | Lace (#0) |
| Yardage | Not printed; see modernisation notes. (as printed; yardage not given) |
| Hook | 1.5 mm |
| Gauge | Not printed; work a sample and change hook size to suit. |
| Finished size | Not printed; worked to the length required. |
| Time | about 5 hours |
Materials
- A fine white cotton crochet thread, about size 20 to 40 — ours; this design names no thread at all
- A fine steel hook to suit the thread
- Hook: Start with about 1.5 mm (US steel 7) — ours, approximate. The book prints no hook for this design. Change size until the fabric is firm and even.
Yarn Kit & Substitution Options
This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:
Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic
315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture
2 skeins required
approx. $$10.98 total
Abbreviations (US terms)
- chain
- single crochet
- space
- repeat
- row
- loop
- stitch
Notes before you start
- Source: "Oyster-shell Edging", The Home Art Crochet Book (edited by Flora Klickmann), The Office of “The Girl's Own Paper & Woman's Magazine”, 4 Bouverie Street E.C., & 65 St. Paul's Churchyard, London; printed by Curtis & Beamish, Ltd., Coventry, England. Public domain in the USA.
- As printed — materials: No thread or hook is named for this design; it is the first design in the book and stands under the section heading “EDGINGS FOR THE AVERAGE WORKER”.. Gauge: Not given.
- Modernisation note: Stitches are converted by this book's own printed key and its own printed wrap counts, not by stitch name. This is a BRITISH book. The key stands at the head of book page 1 (image p-008.jpg) under the heading “Abbreviations used.” and reads: “ch = chain ; s c = single crochet ; d c = double crochet ; tr = treble ; d tr = double treble ; l tr = long treble ; sp = space ; st = stitch.” The book then glosses its tall stitches with wrap counts in the directions themselves, which fixes the ladder beyond argument: “turn the thread twice around the needle for a long tr” (book page 2) and “3 long tr (thread twice over hook)” (book page 9) make the long treble a 2-wrap, 4-loop stitch — the modern US treble; “3 triple tr into the ring (thread three times over the needle)” (book page 6) makes the triple treble a 3-wrap, 5-loop stitch — the modern US double treble; and “a quadruple tr (thread four times over the needle)” (book page 13) takes 4 wraps. Counting back down that ladder the book's plain tr can only be a 1-wrap, 3-loop stitch, which is the modern US double crochet, and its d c — worked with no wrap — is the modern US single crochet. Its “s c”, the old British single crochet, is the flat joining stitch and is written sl st. So here: d c = sc, tr = dc, long tr and d tr = tr, triple tr = dtr, s c = sl st, miss = sk.
- Modernisation note: The printed directions run as solid paragraphs, and where the book numbers its rows it does so as “1st Row.”, “2nd Row.” and so on. They are split here into one row or step per line and the ordinals are written Row 1, Row 2, Row 3. Where the book starts a new row with only “Turn with …” and no number, a number is supplied in sequence and the change is noted. Stitch order and counts are unchanged.
- Modernisation note: The scan of this book carries the usual optical-reading slips and every figure below was read back against the page image: the scan's “lst” and “Ist” are 1st, its “8rd” is 3rd, its “11zh” is 11th, its “de” for a stitch is d c, its “ir” is tr, its “trs” is tr, its “inte” is into, its “imsert” is insert, its “donble” is double, its “crocliet” is crochet, and its “miss3 ch” is miss 3 ch. These are scanning artefacts, not printed errors, and they are corrected silently in the rows; genuine PRINTED slips are a different matter and are always flagged with a “Check:” note instead of being quietly mended.
- Modernisation note: Hooks are printed only as period British maker's numbers (“No. 6 crochet-hook”, “No. 5 hook”, “a medium fine crochet-hook”) with no diameters, and those numbers do not map onto the modern scale. Any metric size given in the modern materials is ours and is a starting point only.
- Modernisation note: No gauge, tension or stitch-per-inch figure is printed for this design, or for any design in this book. Work a sample and change hook size to suit the thread.
- Modernisation note: No yardage is estimated. The book never prints a ball length, a reel length or a quantity for any design — it names a thread and a hook and nothing more — so there is no printed basis for a yardage figure and none is invented here.
- Modernisation note: No finished measurement is printed for this design. Like every edging and insertion in this book it is worked to the length required, and its depth is set by the stitch counts printed, not by any measurement the book gives.
- Modernisation note: No thread and no hook are printed for this design — it opens the section and the book simply begins. The modern thread and hook given above are ours and are a starting point only.
- Modernisation note: Check: the printed scallop directions carry two asterisks whose openings are not marked on the page, so the repeat brackets in the scallop above follow the sense of the counts rather than a printed bracket. The stitch counts themselves are exactly as printed.
Row progress: 0 of 4 done (0%)
The insertion
0 of 4 done- Row 1: Ch 15, 1 sc into the 6th ch from the hook, 8 sc into the next 8 ch, ch 5, 1 sc into ch. Turn.Mark row complete
- Row 2: Ch 5, 1 sc into the space of 5 ch, ch 9, 1 sc into the loop at the end of the row.Mark row complete
- Row 3: Ch 5, 9 sc into ch, ch 5, 1 sc into the loop.Mark row complete
- Repeat from Row 2 for the length required.Mark row complete
Working on:
Row 1: Ch 15, 1 sc into the 6th ch from the hook, 8 sc into the next 8 ch, ch 5, 1 sc into ch. Turn.
Continue this pattern
The rest of the Oyster-shell Edging pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims
Still to come in the full pattern:
- To form a corner, if needed
- For the scallop
- Finishing
Included with 618 patterns for $9 — $0.01 per pattern.

Errata
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Your notes on this pattern
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Frequently asked questions
Where is the Oyster-shell Edging pattern from?
It was published as "Oyster-shell Edging" in The Home Art Crochet Book (edited by Flora Klickmann) by The Office of “The Girl's Own Paper & Woman's Magazine”, 4 Bouverie Street E.C., & 65 St. Paul's Churchyard, London; printed by Curtis & Beamish, Ltd., Coventry, England. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.
What yarn or thread do I need for the Oyster-shell Edging?
Not printed for this design; about size 20 to 40 crochet cotton is a reasonable modern choice. Not printed; see modernisation notes.
What hook should I use?
Start with about 1.5 mm (US steel 7) — ours, approximate. The book prints no hook for this design. Change size until the fabric is firm and even. Gauge: Not printed; work a sample and change hook size to suit.







