Handkerchief Edging No. 54 (1920): vintage crochet pattern

Materials

• Size 100 mercerized cotton crochet thread — approximate; the original was Coats Mercerized Crochet, No. 100 (amount not printed)
• Steel crochet hook
• Tapestry needle for the ends
• A hemmed linen handkerchief with a rolled edge closely covered with sc
• Hook: Start with a 0.75 mm (US steel 14) hook — approximate. Change size until the edging lies flat.

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch

chain

sc

single crochet

dc

double crochet

st

stitch

sts

stitches

rep

repeat

row

row

sk

skip

Notes before you start

• Source: "No. 54" (Plate 54), J. & P. Coats Crochet Book No. 5: Edgings, Insertions, Medallions (designed by Anne Orr), J. & P. Coats (R. I.) Incorporated, Pawtucket, R.I., 1920. Public domain in the USA.
• As printed — materials: Coats Mercerized Crochet Cotton, No. 100. Gauge: Not given.
• Modernisation note: Stitches are converted by this book's own key (“Foundation Stitches and How to Make Them”, book pages 4 and 5), not by name. The key defines: chain stitch (ch); slip stitch (sl st), drawn through the stitch and the loop on the needle in one motion; single stitch (s st), insert, draw through the stitch making two loops on the needle, then draw through those two — the modern US single crochet; treble crochet (tr), thread round the needle once, draw through, off two and off two, with the note “Three chains equal one treble in measure and in count” — the modern US double crochet; double treble crochet (d tr), thread round twice, worked off two at a time for three repeats — the modern US treble; triple treble crochet (tr tr), thread round three times, four repeats — the modern US double treble. So this 1920 book's treble names stand one step taller than modern US names, and every book tr is written dc here, every d tr is written tr, and every tr tr is written dtr. This is the same key, word for word, that J. & P. Coats Crochet Books No. 2 and No. 3 print, and it is verified here from this book's own pages rather than assumed. It is American period naming, not British: the key's own working definitions settle it, since its “single stitch” draws through both loops in one step (a sc, not a British dc) and its “treble” takes only one thread-over.
• Modernisation note: This book writes single crochet two ways in its own directions — “s st”, the key's name, and “sc”, which it uses freely in the medallion rows. Both are the modern US single crochet and both are written sc here.
• Modernisation note: The book's wording is written in modern US form: “needle” = hook; “throw thread around the needle” = yo; “skip” = sk; “Repeat from *” = rep from *; st(s) = st(s); sp = sp; sh = shell. “2d sp”, “3d sp”, “5th s st” mean the 2nd, 3rd and 5th space or stitch counted on from the last one worked.
• Modernisation note: Picot is the book's own (key No. 9): “usually made by a chain of three or five, then a slip stitch in the first chain”, with any variation given in the design's own directions. Where a design prints its own picot count it is kept; where it prints only “p”, the chain-3 or chain-5 picot of the key is the one to use.
• Modernisation note: The printed paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts are unchanged. Section headings added for navigation. Ordinal row names (“1st Row”, “2d Row”, “3d Row”) are written Row 1, Row 2, Row 3, and the book's word “Row” is kept even where the work goes around.
• Modernisation note: Coats Mercerized Crochet numbers are read as roughly equal to the modern crochet thread sizes of the same number — approximate only. The book prints no ball length or yardage for any design, so no yardage is given here.
• Modernisation note: Unlike Coats Books No. 2 and No. 3, this book prints a thread-and-hook table (book page 5, “Directions for Filet Crochet Work”), which pairs No. 30 thread with a No. 9 hook at 4 meshes to the inch, No. 50 with No. 12 at 6½, No. 60 with No. 12 at 7, No. 70 with No. 13 at 8, and No. 100 with No. 14 at 9½ to 10 — with the warning that the table only holds if the thread is held tight. Those are 1920 maker's steel-hook numbers and do not map onto the modern US steel scale, so any metric hook suggested here is ours, read across from the thread size; the printed numbers are recorded in the original materials.
• Modernisation note: No gauge is printed for this design. The book's page-5 table gives meshes to the inch for filet mesh only, which is not this design's fabric; work a sample and change hook size until the edging lies flat.
• Modernisation note: No finished measurement is printed for this design; it is worked to fit the piece it trims, so its length is set by that piece.
• Modernisation note: Check: no colour is printed for this design. The plates photograph as a plain light thread, and the book's covers list Coats Mercerized Crochet in White and in Ecru.
• Modernisation note: Check: the book prints these ten edgings under one heading and one set of materials — “These handkerchiefs are all rolled edge, closely covered with single crochet, therefore the directions will refer to the next row as No. 1. They are all made with Coats Mercerized Crochet Cotton No. 100.” So the “sts” each design works into are the single crochet of that covered rolled edge, and Row 1 is the first crochet row above it. Worked on any sc-covered edge of the same spacing, each one stands on its own.
• Modernisation note: Check: no hook is printed on this page. The book's page-5 table pairs No. 100 thread with a No. 14 hook, and the metric hook suggested here is ours, read across from the thread size.