Wide Canton Lace (1891): vintage crochet pattern

Materials

• Crochet cotton or linen thread — the book prints no size; its own section title names cotton and linen
• Steel crochet hook to suit the thread
• Tapestry needle for the ends
• Hook: Check: the book prints no hook number for any design in this section, so no modern hook can be read across from a printed size. Match the hook to whatever thread you choose, and change size until the lace lies flat.

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch

chain

sc

single crochet

dc

double crochet

st

stitch

sts

stitches

sk

skip

rep

repeat

sp

space

lp

loop

row

row

Notes before you start

• Source: "Wide Canton Lace" (No. 60), Home Work: a choice collection of useful designs for the crochet and knitting needle, Rose Publishing Co. (Ltd.), Toronto, 1891. Public domain in the USA.
• As printed — materials: Not printed — the book names no thread, thread number, hook number or brand for the designs in this section; its printed section title is “Designs for Crocheting in Cotton and Linen”.. Gauge: Not given.
• Modernisation note: Stitches are converted by this book's own printed key, not by the look of the abbreviation. The key is headed “Terms used in Crochet” and stands at the head of PART ONE, SECTION I.—Terms and Stitches, BOOK PAGE 9 (image p-010.jpg), running onto book page 10 (image p-011.jpg). It prints ten entries: “Ch—Chain, a straight series of loops, each drawn with the hook through the preceding one.” “St—Stitch or Stitches.” “Sl st—Slip Stitch; put the hook through the work, thread over the hook, draw it through the stitch on the hook.” “S c—Single Crochet; having a stitch on the hook, put the hook through the work, thread over the hook, draw it through the work, thread over, draw it through the two stitches on the hook.” “D c—Double Crochet; having a stitch on the hook, put thread over the hook, then hook through the work, thread over, draw it through two stitches, thread over, draw it through the two remaining.” “Tr—Treble Crochet; like double, except that the thread is thrown twice round the hook before inserting the hook through the work. The stitches are worked off two at a time as in double crochet.” “H tr—Half Treble, sometimes called Short Treble crochet; like double crochet, except that when the three stitches are on the needle, instead of drawing thread through two stitches twice, it is drawn through all three at once.” “L tr—Long Treble; throw thread over needle three times before inserting hook in the work, work off two stitches at a time as in double crochet.” “P—Picot; make three, four, five, or as many chain stitches as you wish to have in the picot, and form them into a loop by making a single crochet or slip stitch on the first of them.” “Sh—Shell; this is usually made by putting two doubles, two chains, and two doubles in one stitch; or by putting three or more doubles in one stitch without chain stitches between.” “*—Star; this is used where certain stitches are to be repeated.” The heights are therefore MODERN US: the S c works off two loops (US single, not the British double); the D c works off three loops two at a time (US double); the Tr throws the thread twice (US treble); the L tr throws it three times (US double treble, written dtr here). The H tr is the decisive entry — it is defined as HALF OF THE DOUBLE, not of the treble, so despite its British-sounding name it is the modern US half double crochet, and its wording confirms that this book's D c really is the modern double. This book is therefore a hybrid: US heights under two British-flavoured names.
• Modernisation note: The book's wording is written in modern US form: “make a chain of N stitches” = ch N; “miss” and “pass over” = sk; “catch” and “fasten” = sl st or join, according to what the row is doing; “throw the thread over” = yo; “needle” and “hook” both mean the hook and are written hook; “under” a chain = into the chain space; “the 4th st. of ch.” = the 4th chain; “repeat from *” = rep from *. The book's numbered paragraphs (“1.”, “2.”, “3.”) are its rows and are written Row 1, Row 2, Row 3. The book's spelling “scallop” is kept.
• Modernisation note: The printed directions are already numbered row by row in this section, and are transcribed one row per line in the book's own order. The book's own sub-headings (Heading, For the edge, On the upper edge and so on) are kept as section headings. Stitch order and counts are unchanged and nothing is added; where the book stops without a stitch count, so does this transcription.
• Modernisation note: This is a microform scan and the optical reading of it carries the usual slips; every figure below was read back against the page image at 220 dpi. Recurring slips in this book's scanned text are “d. o” and “d. ¢” for d. c., “s. o” and “a. c.” for s. c., “at.” and “ata.” for st. and sts., “Ist” for 1st, “lst” for 1st, “1” and “l” for the figure 1, and “Bhell” for Shell. The rows below follow what the printed page actually shows, and any place where the scan and the page disagree is listed as a Check note.
• Modernisation note: No materials are printed for this design. This section of the book prints no thread brand, no thread number and no hook number for any of its designs — the only material guidance is the section's own printed title, “Designs for Crocheting in Cotton and Linen” (book page 23), which is recorded here as the book's own range rather than as this design's specification. Nothing is invented to fill the gap.
• Modernisation note: No gauge is printed for this design; the book prints no gauge, tension or mesh count anywhere in this section. Work a sample and change hook size until the lace lies flat.
• Modernisation note: No finished measurement is printed for this design. It is worked to the length of the piece it trims, so its length is set by that piece. The book's own word for its width is the one in the design's printed name — the designs called “Narrow” are narrow edgings.
• Modernisation note: Check: no colour is printed for this design. The engravings photograph as a plain light thread. The section's printed title names cotton and linen as its materials but names no colour; white and écru are recorded here as the ordinary choices for such thread, not as this design's printed colour.
• Modernisation note: No yardage is printed for this design, and none is estimated here — the book gives no thread size to estimate from.
• Modernisation note: This design runs across a page turn (book page 65 to book page 66, images p-060.jpg and p-061.jpg); both leaves are present and were read. The name, the foundation and Rows 1 to 6 are on page 65 and Rows 7 to 17 on page 66.
• Modernisation note: Book page 65 sets Rows 1 to 3 in two columns round the engraving and the optical reading interleaves the columns. Every row below follows the printed reading order of the page image.
• Modernisation note: The book's own sub-heading “Now commence the large scallop thus” is kept, and the rows that follow it are grouped under it here; the book numbers them 10 to 17 continuing from Row 9.
• Modernisation note: Check: the last line of this design reads “Make 10 rows of the insertion, and commence the 2nd wheel.” The design makes scallops, not wheels, and the book's word is kept as printed rather than corrected.
• Modernisation note: Check: the scan reads Row 1 as “9 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c. in next”; the page image reads “2 ch., miss 2, 1 d. c. in next”, in line with every other space in the row.
• Modernisation note: Check: the scan reads Row 2 as “1 d. c. in each of 4 at. 2 ch., mias 2, 1d, c. in each of 4 at.” and closes it “d. oc. in 3rd stitch of ch.”; the page image reads “1 d. c. in each of 4 st. 2 ch., miss 2, 1 d. c. in each of 4 st.” and “d. c. in 3rd stitch of ch.”
• Modernisation note: Check: the scan reads Row 3 as “1 d. c. in each cf next 4 st, 2 ch, 1 d:c. ond. c,”; the page image reads “1 d. c. in each of next 4 st., 2 ch., 1 d. c. on d. c.”
• Modernisation note: Check: the scan reads Row 5 as “1 8, c. under 4 ch,” and Row 6 as “2 ch., 3 d. c. on ch. st. and d, c. on d. c.”; the page image reads “1 s. c. under 4 ch.” and “2 ch., 3 d. c. on ch. st. and d. c. on d. c.”
• Modernisation note: Check: the scan reads Row 10 as “6 d. c. se~arated by 2 ch.”; the page image reads “6 d. c. separated by 2 ch.”
• Modernisation note: The engraving printed with this design survives the filming well enough to show the pointed fan of the large scallop and the square ground above it, but it is a photograph of the finished lace and nothing is read from it.