Diamond and Popcorn Crocheted Cap (1916): vintage crochet pattern

Materials

• Size 8 pearl cotton — approximate; the original was O. N. T. Pearl Cotton No. 8
• Steel crochet hook — the book prints no hook number for this cap
• Tapestry needle for the ends
• Hook: Check: the book prints no hook number for this cap, so no hook can be read across from its own page-41 table. Match the hook to the thread and to the flatness of the crown.

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch

chain

sl st

slip stitch

sc

single crochet

dc

double crochet

tr

treble crochet

pc

popcorn

st

stitch

sts

stitches

rep

repeat

sk

skip

sp

space

row

row

sh

shell

Notes before you start

• Source: "Two Pretty Crocheted Caps — the first cap", Clark's O. N. T. Book of Needlework, The Clark Thread Company, Newark, New Jersey, 1916. Public domain in the USA.
• As printed — materials: O. N. T. Pearl Cotton No. 8; Crochet hook — no number printed for this cap. Gauge: Not given.
• Modernisation note: Stitches are converted by this book's own key, read for this book and not assumed from the brand or the year. The abbreviation list is printed on book page 41 under “Abbreviations Used in Crocheting” — “st = stitch; ch = chain stitch; sl st = slip stitch; sc = single crochet; dc = double crochet; tr c = treble crochet; p = picot; d = dot; w st = wound stitch; m = meshes”, with a star that “Means to repeat directions printed between them as many times as stated in each case.” The stitches are then defined in words on book page 42: Single Crochet — “Insert the hook in the foundation chain and draw thread through, catch thread around hook and draw through both loops on hook”, the modern US single crochet; Double Crochet — “Catch thread around hook, insert in chain, draw thread through; catch thread around hook, draw through two loops, thread around hook and draw through last two loops. Always start a d c row with 3 ch in place of the first dc”, the modern US DOUBLE crochet; Treble Crochet — “The treble crochet is made similarly to the double crochet. Start with 4 ch and take thread twice over needle, drawing three times through two”, the modern US treble. So this 1916 book uses modern US heights and no re-lettering is needed: its dc is written dc and its tr c is written tr. This matters because the same firm's 1923 Book No. 19 does the opposite, printing “D c” for a modern half double and “Tr” for a modern double; the two books were checked separately and do not agree.
• Modernisation note: The book's wording is written in modern US form: “needle” and “hook” both mean the hook and are written hook; “thread over needle” = yo; “skip” = sk; “catch”/“fasten” at the end of a circuit = sl st or join, according to what the row is doing; the book's star ★ is written * and “repeat from ★” = rep from *; tr c = tr; sh st = shell stitch. The OCR of this scan prints the ordinal “1st” as “Ist” and the letters c/e interchangeably in places (“de” for “dc”, “se” for “sc”); those quirks are kept in the excerpts and not in the rows.
• Modernisation note: The printed paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts are unchanged. Section headings added for navigation. Ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2nd row”) are written Row 1, Row 2, and the book's word “row” is kept even where the work goes around, as the book itself does.
• Modernisation note: Clark's O. N. T. crochet cotton numbers are read as roughly equal to the modern crochet thread sizes of the same number — approximate only. The book's own Table of Cotton and Hook Sizes on book page 41 pairs Clark's O. N. T. Crochet Cotton Nos. 1, 3, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80 and 100 with Milward's Crochet Hooks Nos. 1 to 14 in that order, and that table is what ties each design's printed hook number to its printed thread.
• Modernisation note: The Milward's hook numbers printed here are 1916 maker's numbers and do not map onto the modern US steel scale, so any metric hook suggested below is ours, read across from the thread size and not printed in the book; the printed hook number is kept in the original materials. The book's own advice on page 41 is to test first: “it is wise to do a little experimenting with the cotton and needle in the sizes suggested in the directions in order to determine that the needle really is the correct size for each individual worker.”
• Modernisation note: No gauge is printed for this design. The book prints a stitch count per inch for its two filet yokes only, and those are the squared-diagram designs that are not transcribed here. Work a sample and change hook size until the work lies flat and matches the photograph.
• Modernisation note: No yardage is printed for this design. The book gives ball counts only for the baby jacket and cap, and no yardage anywhere, so none is estimated here.
• Modernisation note: Dot or popcorn is the book's own, defined on book page 43 under “Crochet Dots”: “These dots, also called popcorn stitch, are made of double or treble crochet worked in groups. Instead of drawing the thread through the last time with each stitch, leave the loops on the needle, and draw through when you have made the number of doubles or trebles that the pattern demands.” Designs that print their own popcorn count use that count.
• Modernisation note: No finished measurement is printed for this design.
• Modernisation note: Check: no colour is printed for this design. It photographs as a plain light thread, and the book's own O. N. T. Articles pages list Clark's O. N. T. crochet cottons in white and in colours.
• Modernisation note: This cap defines its own popcorn in the paragraph above the directions — 7 dc under the chain, hook through the top of the first dc, draw the loop through the work and through the stitch on the hook, ch 1 to fasten — and that definition, not the book's general dot on page 43, is what the pc of these rows means. It is printed here as its own section so the count is not lost.
• Modernisation note: Check: the book prints no head size, no crown diameter and no finished measurement for this cap. Its shaping is by popcorn placement only, so the fit must be judged against the photograph as the work grows.
• Modernisation note: Check: Row 16 ends by leaving two diamonds unworked “to form the back of the bonnet”, and the front border rows 17 to 23 are then worked back and forth across the remainder rather than around. The book does not restate this at each row; it is carried through from the Row 16 sentence.
• Modernisation note: Check: the OCR prints pc as “pe” and dc as “de” throughout this page, and “1} pe” for “1 pc” in Row 16. The stitch letters are read from image p-054.jpg; no count is changed.
• Modernisation note: Check: the book prints this cap's directions but no assembly, no lining and no tie. Nothing is added here.