Crocheted Baby Jacket, 1 to 6 Months (1916): vintage crochet pattern

Materials

• A smooth cotton yarn about the weight of a modern size 3 crochet cotton — approximate; the original was Clark's O. N. T. 4 Strand Cotton, 4 large or 8 small balls
• Size 5 pearl cotton in a contrast colour, 1 medium ball — approximate; the original was Clark's O. N. T. Pearl Cotton, No. 5
• A bone or smooth plastic crochet hook, as the book asks for
• Tapestry needle, for sewing the pieces together
• Hook: Check: the book prints no hook number for the jacket, only “a fine bone needle”. No metric size can be read across from its page-41 table, so pick a hook that gives a firm shell stitch in the yarn chosen and check the work against the printed 8-inch length.

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch

chain

sl st

slip stitch

sc

single crochet

dc

double crochet

ps

puff stitch

st

stitch

sts

stitches

rep

repeat

sk

skip

sp

space

row

row

sh

shell

tog

together

Notes before you start

• Source: "Crocheted Cap and Jacket For a Baby — jacket", Clark's O. N. T. Book of Needlework, The Clark Thread Company, Newark, New Jersey, 1916. Public domain in the USA.
• As printed — materials: 4 Large Balls or 8 Small Balls Clark's O. N. T. 4 Strand Cotton; 1 Medium Ball Clark's O. N. T. Pearl Cotton, No. 5, colour as desired; A fine bone needle — “The best results will be obtained if the work is done with a fine bone needle.”. Gauge: Not given.
• Modernisation note: Stitches are converted by this book's own key, read for this book and not assumed from the brand or the year. The abbreviation list is printed on book page 41 under “Abbreviations Used in Crocheting” — “st = stitch; ch = chain stitch; sl st = slip stitch; sc = single crochet; dc = double crochet; tr c = treble crochet; p = picot; d = dot; w st = wound stitch; m = meshes”, with a star that “Means to repeat directions printed between them as many times as stated in each case.” The stitches are then defined in words on book page 42: Single Crochet — “Insert the hook in the foundation chain and draw thread through, catch thread around hook and draw through both loops on hook”, the modern US single crochet; Double Crochet — “Catch thread around hook, insert in chain, draw thread through; catch thread around hook, draw through two loops, thread around hook and draw through last two loops. Always start a d c row with 3 ch in place of the first dc”, the modern US DOUBLE crochet; Treble Crochet — “The treble crochet is made similarly to the double crochet. Start with 4 ch and take thread twice over needle, drawing three times through two”, the modern US treble. So this 1916 book uses modern US heights and no re-lettering is needed: its dc is written dc and its tr c is written tr. This matters because the same firm's 1923 Book No. 19 does the opposite, printing “D c” for a modern half double and “Tr” for a modern double; the two books were checked separately and do not agree.
• Modernisation note: The book's wording is written in modern US form: “needle” and “hook” both mean the hook and are written hook; “thread over needle” = yo; “skip” = sk; “catch”/“fasten” at the end of a circuit = sl st or join, according to what the row is doing; the book's star ★ is written * and “repeat from ★” = rep from *; tr c = tr; sh st = shell stitch. The OCR of this scan prints the ordinal “1st” as “Ist” and the letters c/e interchangeably in places (“de” for “dc”, “se” for “sc”); those quirks are kept in the excerpts and not in the rows.
• Modernisation note: The printed paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts are unchanged. Section headings added for navigation. Ordinal row names (“1st row”, “2nd row”) are written Row 1, Row 2, and the book's word “row” is kept even where the work goes around, as the book itself does.
• Modernisation note: Clark's O. N. T. crochet cotton numbers are read as roughly equal to the modern crochet thread sizes of the same number — approximate only. The book's own Table of Cotton and Hook Sizes on book page 41 pairs Clark's O. N. T. Crochet Cotton Nos. 1, 3, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80 and 100 with Milward's Crochet Hooks Nos. 1 to 14 in that order, and that table is what ties each design's printed hook number to its printed thread.
• Modernisation note: The Milward's hook numbers printed here are 1916 maker's numbers and do not map onto the modern US steel scale, so any metric hook suggested below is ours, read across from the thread size and not printed in the book; the printed hook number is kept in the original materials. The book's own advice on page 41 is to test first: “it is wise to do a little experimenting with the cotton and needle in the sizes suggested in the directions in order to determine that the needle really is the correct size for each individual worker.”
• Modernisation note: No yardage is printed for this design. The book gives ball counts only for the baby jacket and cap, and no yardage anywhere, so none is estimated here.
• Modernisation note: Picot (p) is the book's own, defined on book page 42: “Make a chain of three or four st as indicated in directions; throw cotton over hook, insert hook into first ch st made and make a single crochet.” The chain count is kept wherever the design prints one.
• Modernisation note: No gauge is printed. The book sets the size by finished inches instead — back and fronts 8 inches, sleeves 6 inches, shoulders joined over two and a half inches, fronts sewn to the back 4 inches from the bottom — so the fit is checked by measuring the pieces, not by a swatch.
• Modernisation note: The printed measurements are kept and the metric conversions are ours: 8 inches is about 20 cm, 6 inches about 15 cm, 4 inches about 10 cm, two and a half inches about 6 cm.
• Modernisation note: The book prints ball counts rather than yardage, and they are recorded as printed. No yardage is estimated from them.
• Modernisation note: Check: the picot of the last border row is the book's own, glossed inline — “1 p (p, that is, ch 3, 1 sc in first of 3 ch)” — and that gloss is carried into the row above.
• Modernisation note: Check: the final border row joins “over the 6 ch left from start” although the preceding row chained 9 at the front corner. The discrepancy is in the print; it is transcribed as printed and checked against image p-077.jpg.
• Modernisation note: Check: the book gives no colour for the contrast border beyond “Color as Desired”, so no colour name is invented. The jacket body is worked in the white 4 Strand thread, which the book names directly.
• Modernisation note: Check: the neck-narrowing row draws three double crochet together — “Do not pull thread through twice, but leave last 2 loops on needle until there are 6 loops. Pull through at once” — which is the page-43 dot worked as a decrease. The book gives it no abbreviation here, so it is written out.