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Narrow Edging in Five Rows (1891): vintage crochet pattern

A five-row edging worked all in one direction, the thread broken at the end of every row: a spaced foundation row, blocks of six double crochet, fans in the spaces, and a last row whose fans are parted by three chain-4 picots.

By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress

Narrow Edging, No. 18, is printed in the right-hand column of book page 27
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Pattern at a glance
DetailValue
Skill levelEasy
Yarn weightLace (#0)
YardageNot printed. (as printed; yardage not given)
Hook5 mm
GaugeNo gauge printed.
Finished sizeNot printed.
Timeabout 2 hours

Materials

  • Crochet cotton — the book prints no size; the section's own general remarks name white, unbleached and écru crochet cotton and linen thread
  • Steel crochet hook to suit the thread
  • Tapestry needle for the ends
  • Hook: Check: the book prints no hook number for any design in this section, so no modern hook can be read across from a printed size. Match the hook to whatever thread you choose, and change size until the edging lies flat.
Smart Yarn Matcher

Yarn Kit & Substitution Options

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This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:

Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic

315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture

2 skeins required

approx. $$10.98 total

Abbreviations (US terms)

chain
single crochet
double crochet
stitch
stitches
repeat
skip
space
row

Notes before you start

  • Source: "Narrow Edging" (No. 18), The Art of Crocheting, The Butterick Publishing Co. (Limited), London and New York, 1891. Public domain in the USA.
  • As printed — materials: Not printed — the book names no thread, thread number, hook number or brand for the designs in this section.. Gauge: Not given.
  • Modernisation note: Stitches are converted by this book's own printed definitions (the STITCHES section, book pages 6, 7 and 8, images p-010.jpg and p-011.jpg), not by the look of the abbreviation. Despite the 1891 date this book uses MODERN US names throughout. Its “Single Crochet” (No. 8, page 6) is: “Draw a loop through a stitch of the foundation; throw the thread over the hook and draw through both loops on the hook at once.” That is the modern US single crochet. Its “Double Crochet” (No. 6, page 6) is: “Throw the thread over the hook and take up a loop through a stitch of the foundation; throw the thread over again and draw through two of the three loops now on the hook; throw the thread over once more, and draw through the two remaining loops.” That is the modern US double crochet, not a single. Its “Half-Double Crochet” (page 7) is: “Throw the thread over the hook and take up a stitch of the foundation or work; throw the thread over again, and draw through all three loops on the hook together.” That is the modern US half double. Its “Treble Crochet” (page 7) is: “made the same as double crochet, except that the thread is thrown around the hook twice before the foundation stitch is taken up; and in working off, the thread is thrown over the hook three times, being drawn through two stitches each time as before.” That is the modern US treble. Its “Slip Stitch” (No. 5, page 6) is: “After a foundation is made insert the hook in each stitch and draw the thread through it and loop on the hook together.” So this book's s. c., d. c., h. d. c. and tr. c. are written sc, dc, hdc and tr here with no shift of height — a genuine finding checked against the printed definitions rather than assumed from the date, and the opposite of what the 1913/1915/1916 Priscilla books do.
  • Modernisation note: The book repeats the key as an abbreviation table at the head of the section these designs come from, “ABBREVIATIONS USED IN CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS”, book page 16 (image p-020.jpg): “l. — Loop. ch. st. — Chain stitch. s. c. — Single crochet. d. c. — Double crochet. h. d. c. — Half double crochet. tr. c. — Treble crochet. p. — Picot. sl. st. — Slip stitch.” The book adds that it has “avoided resorting to its use as far as possible, in order that our instructions may be as clear to the beginner as to the adept”, which is why most designs here spell the stitches out in words and only a few use the letters. Both forms are written in modern shorthand in the rows below.
  • Modernisation note: The book's wording is written in modern US form: “make” a chain = ch; “catch” = sl st or join, according to what the row is doing; “throw the thread over the hook” = yo; “pick up a loop” = pull up a loop; “skip” = sk; “needle” and “hook” both mean the hook and are written hook; “underneath” means the previous row and is kept; “repeat from *” = rep from *. Ordinal row names (“First row.”, “Second row.”, “Third row.”) are written Row 1, Row 2, Row 3. The book's spelling “scollop” is kept in the design names as printed and written scallop in the rows.
  • Modernisation note: The printed directions run as solid paragraphs, most of them without any row numbering at all — the book marks new rows only with the word “turn”. They are split here into one row or step per line at the book's own “turn”, and the book's own sub-headings (For the Heading, For the Lower Edge, To make the Picots, To make the Scollop and so on) are kept as section headings. Stitch order and counts are unchanged and nothing is added.
  • Modernisation note: The scanned text of this 1891 book carries the usual optical-reading slips and every figure below was read back against the page image: the scan's “Toth” is 16th, its “gth” is 4th or 9th according to the sequence, its “roth” is 10th, its “Sth” is 8th, its “§” before a number is the figure 5, its “ting” is ring, its “neat” and “nevt” are next, its “1g ch.” is 14 ch., its “chain of 4g ©” is a chain of 9, and its “t” and “+” standing before a stitch name are the figure 1. The rows below follow what the printed page actually shows.
  • Modernisation note: No materials are printed for this design. The edgings section of this book names no thread, no thread number, no hook number and no brand for any of its designs — it is a technique book, not a thread-maker's pamphlet, and it was sold at “FIFTY CENTS OR TWO SHILLINGS” rather than given away with thread. The only material guidance printed anywhere near these pages is general: book page 21 says “Unbleached or écru crochet cotton makes very” handsome lace, and book page 36 suggests “moderately coarse unbleached crochet cotton or linen” for insertions. Nothing is invented here to fill the gap.
  • Modernisation note: No gauge is printed for this design; the book prints no gauge, tension or mesh count anywhere. Work a sample and change hook size until the edging lies flat.
  • Modernisation note: No finished measurement is printed for this design. It is worked to the length of the piece it trims, so its length is set by that piece.
  • Modernisation note: Check: no colour is printed for this design. The engravings photograph as a plain light thread. The book's general remarks name white, unbleached and écru crochet cotton and linen thread as the usual choices for its laces; that is recorded here as the book's own range, not as this design's colour.
  • Modernisation note: No yardage is printed for this design, and none is estimated here — the book gives no thread size to estimate from.
  • Modernisation note: Check: the book prints no foundation chain count for this design — it says only “a foundation chain of the desired length”. No number is invented here. The repeat of Row 2 is 10 stitches (6 dc plus 4 skipped), so a chain that is a multiple of 10 will come out even.
  • Modernisation note: The book's own instruction to break the thread at the end of every row is kept; it is what keeps every row facing the same way.
Smart Pattern Companion

Row progress: 0 of 6 done (0%)

Edging

0 of 6 done
  1. Make a foundation chain of the desired length. Do the work all on one side, breaking the thread at the end of each row.
    Mark row complete
  2. Row 1: 1 dc in every alternate st of the foundation, with ch 1 between.
    Mark row complete
  3. Row 2: 1 dc in each of the first 6 sts, *ch 5, sk 4, 1 dc in each of the next 6 sts; rep from * to the end of the row.
    Mark row complete
  4. Row 3: 4 dc in the 1st sp, ch 4, 4 dc in the same sp; rep in the spaces to the end of the row.
    Mark row complete
  5. Row 4: join the thread in the top of the 1st dc of Row 2, ch 6, 6 dc in the 1st sp, ch 6, 6 dc in the next sp, and rep to the end of the row.
    Mark row complete
  6. Row 5: 4 dc in the first sp of Row 4, 4 dc in the next sp; *ch 4 and join it in the first one of the ch-4; rep twice from *, and make 4 dc in the same sp; rep to the end of the row.
    Mark row complete

Working on:

Make a foundation chain of the desired length. Do the work all on one side, breaking the thread at the end of each row.

Continue this pattern

The rest of the Narrow Edging in Five Rows (1891) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Edgings & Trims

Still to come in the full pattern:

  • Finishing

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See what's inside
Cover artwork for the vintage edgings and trims collection: narrow crochet lace strips on folded linen

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Frequently asked questions

Where is the Narrow Edging pattern from?

It was published as "Narrow Edging" in The Art of Crocheting by The Butterick Publishing Co. (Limited), London and New York in 1891. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.

What yarn or thread do I need for the Narrow Edging?

See the materials list. Not printed.

What hook should I use?

Check: the book prints no hook number for any design in this section, so no modern hook can be read across from a printed size. Match the hook to whatever thread you choose, and change size until the edging lies flat. Gauge: No gauge printed.

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