Two-Colour Crochet Jacket with Sailor Collar (1911): vintage crochet pattern

Materials

• Fine (CYC #2) wool in white — approximate; the original was 3 oz of white 4-ply Lady Betty wool
• Fine (CYC #2) wool in a contrast colour — approximate; the original was 2 oz of coloured 4-ply Lady Betty wool (the colour is not named)
• Crochet hook (original: No. 10 Strathnoid)
• Ribbon for the collar ties
• Tapestry needle
• Hook: Start with 3.5 mm (US E-4) — approximate; work to the printed 10 in (25 cm) body rather than to a hook size

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch

chain

sl st

slip stitch

sc

single crochet

dc

double crochet

st

stitch

sts

stitches

rep

repeat

row

row

rnd

round

FO

fasten off

Notes before you start

• Source: "Crochet Jacket" (No. 15), What to Make for Baby, Part One (Ella Allan), Mrs Ella Allan's Publications; printed by The Specialty Press Pty. Ltd., Melbourne. Public domain in the USA.
• As printed — materials: 3 oz. white and 2 oz. coloured 4-ply Lady Betty wool; Needle No. 10 (Strathnoid). Gauge: Not given.
• Modernisation note: Stitches converted by the book's own “Explanation of Crochet Stitches” page, not by name — the key is a British one, so every stitch is renamed here: chain = ch; “single crochet” (“put hook through work at stitch indicated; draw thread through work and through loop on needle at same time. This is sometimes called Slip Stitch.”) = modern slip stitch (sl st); “double crochet” (d c: insert the hook, thread over and draw through making 2 loops, thread over and draw through both) = modern single crochet (sc); “treble” (tr: thread over, insert, draw through making 3 loops, thread over through 2, thread over through the remaining 2) = modern double crochet (dc); “double treble” (thread over twice) = modern treble (tr); “long treble” (thread over three times) = modern double treble (dtr). The heights are confirmed by the book's own turning chains — it turns a d c row with 2 ch and a treble row with 3 ch — so nothing here rests on the names alone.
• Modernisation note: The book's abbreviations are written in modern US form: ch = ch, d c = sc, tr = dc, st(s) = st(s); “miss” = sk; “wool over” / “thread over” = yo; “needle” (used for the crochet hook as well as the knitting needle) = hook; “hole” (the space under a chain) = ch-sp or sp; “break off” / “fasten off” = FO; “repeat” = rep. Ordinal names (“1st Row”, “2nd Round”) are written Row 1, Rnd 1; where the book calls a circuit of a round piece a “row” its own word is kept. The book's words “shell”, “group”, “cluster”, “tuft”, “star”, “eye” and “picot” are kept as printed, each with the book's own definition given at first use.
• Modernisation note: Long printed paragraphs are split into one row, round or step per line; stitch order and counts are unchanged. Section headings added for navigation.
• Modernisation note: Hooks are printed only as Strathnoid numbers (No. 10, 12, 13, 14) — a proprietary sizing with no diameters printed — or as “fine hook”, “fine steel crochet hook” or “large hook”. No exact metric size can be read from the book, so the suggested modern hook is an approximate starting point chosen for the yarn and tied to any printed measurement.
• Modernisation note: No stitch gauge is printed anywhere in the book. Work a swatch and match any printed measurement (repeated in the modern gauge line) before starting.
• Modernisation note: The yarns are 1911 Australian trade names with no exact modern equivalent, and the book prints no yardage and no ball or skein weights. The CYC weights given are approximations only, to be matched by gauge or measurement rather than by weight: 2-ply fingering as super fine (CYC #1); 3-ply and 4-ply fingering, 4-ply “Lady Betty” and Andalusian wool as fine (CYC #2); “Ivorine” wool as a fine baby wool (CYC #2, approximate — the book gives no ply for it); crochet silk and “jumper silk” as a fine thread rather than a yarn. “Ivorine” and “Lady Betty” are brand names, not colours or fibre descriptions.
• Modernisation note: No finished measurements, ages or sizes are printed for this design; the figures given are the book's own stitch and row counts and any lengths it prints.
• Modernisation note: Check: no year is printed in the book. The title page gives only the title, “57 designs in knitting and crochet”, “Part One”, the author and the Melbourne printer; the cover instead says “55 designs in knitting or crochet”. The year 1911 is the date recorded for this scan, which notes that it is approximate.
• Modernisation note: The book gives “3 oz. white and 2 oz. coloured” without naming the contrast colour, so only the white is recorded in the colours; choose the contrast yourself.
• Modernisation note: The scan renders the two opening measurements as “34 inches” and “44 inches”; the printed page reads 3½ inches and 4½ inches, which is what is used.
• Modernisation note: The book calls the hook a “needle” in this design's materials, as it does for its knitting needles; it is written as a hook.
• Modernisation note: The quoted excerpt starts mid-sentence because the design's opening line (“Commence (using white wool) with 48 chain, turn,”) falls at the foot of one page and its instruction continues on the next; the excerpt is the continuous run of text that follows the page break.
• Modernisation note: Check: the sleeve's first contrast row, “1 d c in each of 2 stitches. Repeat all around”, is printed without a stitch count and could be read either as a plain round of single crochet or as a drawing-in round; it is transcribed exactly as printed.
• Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
• Modernisation note: Finishing line (weaving in ends) added.