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Under-Sleeve with Flower Insertion and Puffing (1850): vintage crochet pattern
A Victorian lace under-sleeve in fine Raworth's crochet-thread No. 70: two bands of flower insertion, two full puffings of chain loops, and a scalloped edging at the wrist, fastened with a pearl button. Originally published as "Under-Sleeve" in The Lady's Album of Fancy Work for 1850 by Not printed (the Address names only “the Publishers of the Lady's.
By the crochetpatterns.io editorial team · Updated · Editorial policy · pattern testing in progress
| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Advanced |
| Yarn weight | Lace (#0) |
| Yardage | Not printed. (as printed; yardage not given) |
| Hook | 0.85 mm |
| Gauge | Not printed. Work to the size of the article. |
| Finished size | Not printed (wristband of 15 flowers; upper band of 18 flowers). |
| Time | about 12 hours |
Materials
- White cotton crochet thread about size 70–80 (period: Raworth's No. 70)
- Two small pearl (or pearl-effect) buttons; optional narrow satin ribbon
- Fine sewing needle
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
- Hook: Start with a 0.85 mm (US steel 13) hook and adjust to suit your thread; no gauge is printed.
Yarn Kit & Substitution Options
This pattern calls for 350 yards of weight #0 yarn. Select a suggested yarn to see required skeins and estimated cost:
Caron Simply Soft · 100% Acrylic
315 yds per skein · High-yield yardage, silky no-scratch texture
2 skeins required
approx. $$10.98 total
Abbreviations (US terms)
- chain
- slip stitch
- single crochet
- double crochet
- stitch
- stitches
- row
- repeat
- skip
- space
- loop
- wrong side
Notes before you start
- Source: "Under-Sleeve", The Lady's Album of Fancy Work for 1850, Not printed (the Address names only “the Publishers of the Lady's Album of Fancy-Work”), 1850. Public domain in the USA.
- As printed — materials: Raworth's crochet-thread No. 70.. Gauge: Not given.
- Modernisation note: Stitch names converted to modern US terms strictly by the book's own “Explanation of the Various Terms used in Crochet”, not by modern UK usage: “double crochet” / “close double crochet” / “d c” = sc; “single crochet” / “single” / “s c” = sl st; “long stitch” / “long” / “l s” = dc; “double long stitch” / “d l s” = tr; “treble long stitch” / “t l s” = dtr; “chain” / “c s” = ch; “single open crochet” = dc, ch 1, sk 1; “chain-stitch open crochet” = ch loops (5 or another odd number) joined into every 3rd st, then into the centre of each loop below; “three chain crochet” = the same with ch-3 loops; “miss” = sk; “unite” = join (the joining stitch is not named). Note that the book's “double crochet” is a modern sc and its “single crochet” a modern sl st.
- Modernisation note: The book's abbreviations “c s”, “d c”, “s c” and “l s” are expanded by its own definitions (see the first step).
- Modernisation note: Period wording modernised: “needle” / “tambour-needle” written as “hook”; “commence” as “begin”; “cotton” / “thread” as “thread”; “receipt” as “directions”. Round and row numbers are kept as printed.
- Modernisation note: Printed paragraphs split into one step per row, round or instruction; no stitches, counts or rows added, removed or reordered. Words in square brackets or marked “Check:” are ours.
- Modernisation note: Raworth's crochet-thread (and Manlove's) was a period English cotton sold by number; the numbers do not match modern crochet-thread sizes exactly. The modern size given is an approximate equivalent only.
- Modernisation note: No hook size and no gauge is printed. The modern starting hook is an approximate suggestion only.
- Modernisation note: No yardage is printed and none is estimated.
- Modernisation note: Metric conversions added.
- Modernisation note: Check: in the uniting row the book prints “centre of first scallop in next flounce”; “flounce” is read as “flower”.
- Modernisation note: Check: “6 c s, miss 2, s c into third stitch; repeat this five times more” is read as 6 ch loops in all, matching the 6 scallops.
- Modernisation note: Check: the puffing rows are counted (6 + 7 + 6 = 19) as printed, but how the ch-12 first loop fits the 7 middle rows is not fully explained.
- Modernisation note: Check: the sleeve's size depends on the flower count; no measurements are printed.
Row progress: 0 of 4 done (0%)
Stitches
0 of 4 done- The book's letter abbreviations are the initials of its defined terms: “c s” = chain stitch(es) = ch; “d c” = double crochet = sc; “s c” = single crochet = sl st; “l s” = long stitch = dc; “d l s” = double long stitch = tr; “t l s” = treble long stitch = dtr.Mark row complete
- Double crochet (book's definition): “having made a chain, pass the needle through the first loop on the chain, draw the cotton through the loop, there will now be two loops on the needle, through these draw the cotton.” = single crochet (sc). “Close double crochet” = sc worked in every st with no chain between.Mark row complete
- Single crochet (book's definition): “Insert the needle in the loops, and draw the cotton through this loop and that on the needle.” = slip stitch (sl st). The book's “single” on its own means this stitch.Mark row complete
- Long stitch (book's definition): “Twist the cotton round the needle, pass it through the loop, draw the cotton through the first two loops on the needle, then catch the cotton again and draw it through the next two loops; there will be one loop left on the needle.” = double crochet (dc).Mark row complete
Working on:
The book's letter abbreviations are the initials of its defined terms: “c s” = chain stitch(es) = ch; “d c” = double crochet = sc; “s c” = single crochet = sl st; “l s” = long stitch = dc; “d l s” = double long stitch = tr; “t l s” = treble long stitch = dtr.
Continue this pattern
The rest of the Under-Sleeve with Flower Insertion and Puffing (1850) pattern is in the Vintage Crochet Hats, Bags & Accessories
Still to come in the full pattern:
- Band of insertion for the wrist (15 flowers)
- Fulness (puffing) on the wristband
- Fulness on the upper band
- Uniting the wrist fulness to the upper band
- Edging on the wristband
- Finishing
Included with 202 patterns for $12 — $0.06 per pattern.
Errata
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Frequently asked questions
Where is the Under-Sleeve pattern from?
It was published as "Under-Sleeve" in The Lady's Album of Fancy Work for 1850 by Not printed (the Address names only “the Publishers of the Lady's Album of Fancy-Work”) in 1850. The publication is in the public domain in the United States; this version is transcribed and modernised by crochetpatterns.io.
What yarn or thread do I need for the Under-Sleeve?
Cotton crochet thread about size 70–80 (period: Raworth's No. 70). Not printed.
What hook should I use?
Start with a 0.85 mm (US steel 13) hook and adjust to suit your thread; no gauge is printed. Gauge: Not printed. Work to the size of the article.
